Waves & Sound
Wave properties, superposition, standing waves, sound and the Doppler effect. 57 topics, from beginner to advanced. Open the interactive version with labs and quizzes
A wave transfers energy without transferring matter. This area distinguishes transverse and longitudinal waves, mechanical and electromagnetic waves, and defines wavelength, frequency, period and speed. It goes on to superposition, interference, standing waves in strings and pipes, sound intensity, and the Doppler effect.
How the topics connect
Waves carry energy without carrying matter. This area covers the basic wave properties, then superposition and interference, standing waves in strings and pipes, sound and the Doppler effect. Waves also link to optics and quantum physics, where light and matter show the same wave behaviour.
Real-world uses
Design concert halls, speakers and musical instruments using standing-wave patterns and sound intensity.
Use the reflection and Doppler shift of high-frequency sound to image organs and measure blood flow.
Infer the structure of the Earth's interior from the speeds and paths of seismic P and S waves.
Measure the speed of a moving car or storm from the frequency shift of a reflected wave.
Instrument makers choose string tensions and pipe lengths to produce the right harmonics, and architects shape rooms to control echo.
Ultrasound scanners and seismologists use wave reflections and travel times to see inside bodies and the Earth.
What is a wave?
A disturbance that carries energy without carrying matter.
waveA wave is a pattern of disturbance that travels through space, carrying energy and momentum but not matter. The medium's particles only oscillate around their positions.
A stadium wave moves around the arena while each person only stands and sits.
Waves transport energy, not material.
Mechanical vs electromagnetic waves
Mechanical waves need a medium; EM waves do not.
Mechanical waves (sound, water, seismic, string) need a material medium. Electromagnetic waves (light, radio, X-rays) are oscillating electric and magnetic fields and can cross a vacuum.
Sunlight reaches us through empty space, but sound cannot.
Sound doesn't travel in a vacuum.
Transverse waves
Oscillation perpendicular to propagation, like waves on a string.
waveIn a transverse wave the particles move perpendicular to the direction the wave travels: ripples on a rope, light, S-waves. They can be polarised.
Flicking one end of a rope up and down sends a wave along it.
Don't confuse the particle motion with the wave velocity.
Longitudinal waves
Oscillation parallel to propagation, like sound.
Particles oscillate parallel to the propagation direction, creating compressions and rarefactions: sound, P-waves, a slinky push. They can't be polarised.
A loudspeaker cone pushes air back and forth.
Wavelength is the distance between successive compressions.
Wavelength, frequency, speed
Fundamental wave relation.
v = fλv = fλ: the wave advances one wavelength in one period. The speed is set by the medium; frequency by the source.
A 440 Hz tone in air (343 m/s) has λ = 0.78 m.
When the wave enters a new medium, f stays the same and λ changes.
Amplitude and intensity
Intensity is proportional to amplitude squared.
I ∝ A²Amplitude is the maximum displacement. Intensity (power per area) is proportional to amplitude squared (and frequency squared). Doubling the amplitude gives four times the intensity.
Sound twice as loud in amplitude carries four times the power.
Intensity isn't amplitude.
Wave equation (travelling)
A sinusoidal wave function of space and time.
y = A sin(kx − ωt)y(x, t) = A sin(kx − ωt) describes a wave moving in +x at v = ω/k. Using (kx + ωt) gives motion toward −x.
A = 0.1 m, k = 2π, ω = 4π: v = 2 m/s.
Sign of ωt gives the direction.
Wave number
Number of radians per metre.
k = 2π/λk = 2π/λ in rad/m is the spatial analogue of ω: it counts how many radians of phase per metre.
λ = 0.5 m gives k = 12.6 rad/m.
k isn't the same as 1/λ (that's the wavenumber used in spectroscopy).
Wave speed on a string
Depends on tension and mass per unit length.
v = √(T/μ)v = √(T/μ), where T is tension and μ mass per unit length. Tighter and lighter strings carry waves faster.
T = 100 N, μ = 0.01 kg/m: v = 100 m/s.
Frequency doesn't change the speed.
Wave speed in a medium
Depends on elasticity and density.
v = √(B/ρ)Generally v = √(elastic modulus / density): for sound in a fluid v = √(B/ρ), in a solid rod √(Y/ρ). Stiffer, lighter materials are faster.
Sound in steel 5000 m/s, in water 1480 m/s, in air 343.
More elastic gives higher speed.
Speed of sound
About 343 m/s in air at 20 °C.
v = 331 + 0.6TIn air v ≈ 331 + 0.6T (°C) m/s. It rises with temperature and does not depend on pressure at constant temperature.
At 20 °C: 343 m/s.
Higher humidity raises it slightly.
Speed of sound in gases
Depends on temperature and molar mass.
v = √(γRT/M)v = √(γRT/M). Heavier molecules are slower, hotter gases faster. Helium raises the speed to about 1000 m/s, giving a squeaky voice.
Air at 300 K: √(1.4·8.31·300/0.029) ≈ 347 m/s.
Use T in kelvin.
Reflection of waves
Waves bounce at boundaries.
When a wave hits a boundary it bounces back, with the angle of incidence equal to the angle of reflection. Echoes are reflections of sound.
A canyon echo returns after 2d/v.
Frequency doesn't change on reflection.
Phase change on reflection
Fixed ends invert the pulse; free ends do not.
A pulse on a string reflects inverted from a fixed end and upright from a free end. For light, reflection from a denser medium gives a π phase shift.
Waves on a rope tied to a wall come back upside down.
Phase changes matter for interference.
Refraction of waves
Waves change direction when speed changes.
n₁sinθ₁ = n₂sinθ₂When a wave enters a medium with a different speed, its direction bends and its wavelength changes while frequency stays the same. Snell: sinθ₁/sinθ₂ = v₁/v₂.
Water waves bending toward the shore as depth decreases.
Bends toward the normal in the slower medium.
Diffraction
Bending of waves around obstacles and through gaps.
Waves spread when passing through gaps or around edges. The effect is strong when the gap is comparable to the wavelength.
You hear someone round the corner but can't see them: sound λ ≈ 1 m, light λ ≈ 500 nm.
Narrower slit gives more spreading.
Principle of superposition
Displacements of overlapping waves add.
y = y₁+y₂When waves overlap, the resulting displacement is the sum of the individual ones. They pass through each other unchanged.
Two pulses on a string cross and continue.
Applies to linear media only.
Constructive and destructive interference
Waves in phase add; in antiphase cancel.
If waves arrive in phase they add (bright, loud); if out of phase by π they cancel. Complete cancellation needs equal amplitudes.
Two speakers produce loud and quiet spots in a room.
Energy isn't destroyed; it's redistributed.
Path difference and phase
Phase difference equals 2π times path difference over λ.
Δφ = 2πΔx/λA path difference Δx corresponds to a phase difference 2πΔx/λ. Constructive when Δx = nλ, destructive when Δx = (n + ½)λ.
Δx = 1.5λ gives destructive.
Include any phase change on reflection.
Beats
Two close frequencies produce loud–soft pulsing.
f_b = ∣f₁−f₂∣Two waves of slightly different frequencies produce amplitude variations at the beat frequency f_b = |f₁ − f₂|. Musicians use beats to tune instruments.
Tuning a guitar string against a reference: beats slow down as they match.
The perceived pitch is the average frequency.
Standing waves
Interference of opposite waves gives fixed nodes and antinodes.
standingTwo identical waves travelling in opposite directions form a pattern that doesn't move, with fixed nodes (zero amplitude) and antinodes (maximum). y = 2A sin(kx) cos(ωt).
A guitar string pinned at both ends.
Standing waves don't transport energy along.
Nodes and antinodes
Points of no motion and maximum motion.
Nodes are points that never move; antinodes oscillate with the maximum amplitude. Adjacent nodes are λ/2 apart.
A string of 1 m vibrating in the third harmonic has 4 nodes.
A closed end is a displacement node, an open end an antinode (for air).
Modes of a stretched string
Allowed frequencies are integer multiples of the fundamental.
f_n = nv/2LA string fixed at both ends supports wavelengths λ = 2L/n and frequencies fₙ = n v/2L = n f₁. The fundamental is the lowest mode.
L = 0.65 m, v = 400 m/s: f₁ = 308 Hz.
Only integer multiples are allowed.
Harmonics and overtones
Higher modes of vibration give timbre.
The nth harmonic is n times the fundamental; the first overtone is the second harmonic. The mix of harmonics gives an instrument its timbre.
A violin and a flute playing 440 Hz sound different.
"Overtone" counting starts from the second harmonic.
Open organ pipe
Open at both ends supports all harmonics.
f_n = nv/2LOpen at both ends: antinodes at both ends, fₙ = nv/2L with all harmonics (n = 1, 2, 3...).
L = 0.5 m, v = 343: f₁ = 343 Hz.
Similar to a string, as with flutes.
Closed organ pipe
Closed at one end supports only odd harmonics.
f_n = (2n−1)v/4LClosed at one end: node at the closed end and antinode at the open end, so only odd harmonics: fₙ = (2n − 1)v/4L; fundamental v/4L is half of an open pipe's.
L = 0.5 m: f₁ = 171 Hz, then 514, 857.
Sounds an octave lower than an open pipe of the same length.
End correction
Antinode lies slightly beyond an open end.
e ≈ 0.6rThe antinode sits slightly beyond the open end of a pipe, so the effective length is L + 0.6r (one open end). It matters for accurate resonance calculations.
r = 2 cm adds 1.2 cm.
Ignoring it gives errors for fat pipes.
Kundt's tube
Measures sound speed using dust patterns.
A glass tube containing fine powder, with a vibrating rod at one end. The powder collects at nodes, whose spacing λ/2 gives the sound speed.
Powder nodes 0.5 m apart at 340 Hz give λ = 1.0 m, so v = 340 m/s.
Used in classic labs.
Resonance tube experiment
Finds speed of sound from resonance lengths.
v = 2f(l₂−l₁)A tuning fork over a tube with adjustable water level. Resonance happens at successive lengths l₁ and l₂, and v = 2f(l₂ − l₁), which eliminates end correction.
f = 512 Hz, l₂ − l₁ = 33.5 cm: v = 343 m/s.
Use the difference of two resonances.
Sound as pressure waves
Compressions and rarefactions in air.
Sound is a longitudinal pressure variation travelling through a medium. A loudspeaker or vocal cord compresses and rarefies the air layer by layer.
Normal conversation: pressure variations ~0.02 Pa out of 10⁵ Pa.
Air itself isn't carried across the room.
Pitch and frequency
Higher frequency means higher pitch.
Pitch is the perception of frequency: higher frequency, higher pitch. Doubling the frequency raises the pitch by an octave.
Middle A is 440 Hz.
Pitch is subjective, but closely follows frequency.
Loudness and intensity
Perceived loudness relates to intensity logarithmically.
Loudness is perceived and roughly logarithmic in intensity; physical intensity I = P/A in W/m². The ear can handle 10⁻¹² to 1 W/m².
A jet engine at 100 m has I ≈ 1 W/m².
Loudness also depends on frequency.
Decibel scale
Logarithmic unit of sound level.
β = 10 log(I/I₀)Sound level β = 10 log₁₀(I/I₀) with I₀ = 10⁻¹² W/m². Each 10 dB is a tenfold intensity increase; 3 dB roughly doubles it.
A conversation of 60 dB is 10⁶ I₀.
Two 60 dB sources give 63 dB, not 120.
Intensity and distance
Spherical spreading follows the inverse-square law.
I = P/4πr²From a point source I = P/4πr², so doubling the distance gives one quarter of the intensity (6 dB drop).
A 100 W source at 10 m: 0.08 W/m².
Valid in open space without reflections.
Timbre
The tone quality that distinguishes instruments.
Timbre (tone quality) is determined by which harmonics are present and how they change over time, letting you tell a piano from a violin.
Same note with different harmonic mixes.
Not the same as pitch or loudness.
Range of hearing
Humans hear about 20 Hz to 20 kHz.
Humans hear about 20 Hz to 20 kHz, most sensitive at 2–5 kHz; the upper limit falls with age. The threshold of pain is about 120 dB.
Dogs hear up to 45 kHz.
Hearing damage begins at long exposure over 85 dB.
Ultrasound
Sound above 20 kHz used in imaging and cleaning.
Sound above 20 kHz used in medical imaging (1–15 MHz), cleaning, and sonar. Imaging uses echoes of short pulses from tissue boundaries.
Foetal scanning.
Higher frequency gives finer detail but less penetration.
Infrasound
Sound below 20 Hz from earthquakes and large animals.
Frequencies below 20 Hz are produced by earthquakes, volcanoes, whales and elephants. They travel long distances with little absorption.
Elephants communicate over kilometres.
Can cause unease at high levels.
Sonar and echoes
Distance from the echo time.
d = vt/2Distance from the echo delay: d = vt/2. Bats, submarines and depth sounders use it.
A 0.4 s delay in water (1500 m/s) means 300 m.
Divide by 2 because of the round trip.
Doppler effect
Frequency shifts when source or observer moves.
f' = f(v±v_o)/(v∓v_s)If source and observer move relative to each other, the observed frequency changes: f' = f(v ± v_o)/(v ∓ v_s). Approaching raises, receding lowers pitch.
An ambulance siren dropping in pitch as it passes.
Signs: approach means higher frequency.
Doppler with moving source
Approaching sources raise pitch; receding ones lower it.
dopplerFor a source moving at v_s toward a stationary observer f' = fv/(v − v_s); wavefronts bunch up ahead and spread behind.
A 500 Hz siren at 30 m/s approaching: 548 Hz; receding: 460 Hz.
The medium speed v is unchanged.
Doppler with moving observer
An approaching observer detects more wavefronts per second.
For an observer moving at v_o toward the source f' = f(v + v_o)/v. The observer meets more wavefronts per second.
Driving at 20 m/s toward a 500 Hz source: 529 Hz.
Not symmetrical with a moving source at high speed.
Doppler in light
Redshift and blueshift reveal motion of stars.
Δλ/λ = v/cFor light, redshift z = Δλ/λ ≈ v/c gives the radial speed of stars and galaxies. Expansion of the universe shows up as cosmological redshift; police radar uses the Doppler shift too.
A galaxy with z = 0.1 recedes at about 30,000 km/s.
At relativistic speeds use the exact formula.
Shock waves and sonic boom
Source faster than sound generates a cone of compression.
sinθ = v/v_sA source moving faster than the wave speed outruns its waves, forming a cone with half angle sinθ = v/v_s. The sudden pressure jump is heard as a boom.
Concorde at Mach 2: θ = 30°.
The boom is continuous along the track, not a one-time event.
Mach number
Speed relative to the speed of sound.
M = v/c_sM = v/c_s measures speed relative to the sound speed. M < 1 subsonic, M > 1 supersonic, M > 5 hypersonic.
A jet at 680 m/s at altitude (c_s = 295 m/s): M ≈ 2.3.
Sound speed varies with temperature, so M for the same speed changes.
Energy transport in waves
Power carried by a string wave.
P = ½μω²A²vA sinusoidal wave on a string carries average power P = ½μω²A²v: proportional to the square of both amplitude and frequency.
Doubling frequency at fixed amplitude gives four times the power.
Energy flows in the direction of propagation.
Wave packets and group velocity
Envelope of a combined wave moves at group velocity.
v_g = dω/dkA pulse is a superposition of many frequencies. The envelope moves at the group velocity v_g = dω/dk, while the crests travel at the phase velocity ω/k. Energy and information move at v_g.
Deep water waves: v_g is half v_p.
In dispersive media they differ.
Dispersion
Different wavelengths travel at different speeds.
In a dispersive medium wave speed depends on frequency, so a pulse spreads. Glass prisms disperse white light; optical fibres broaden pulses.
Rainbow colours.
Non-dispersive: sound in air at normal frequencies.
Waves in water
Surface waves combine transverse and longitudinal motion.
Surface waves are a combination of transverse and longitudinal motion — particles move in circles. Deep water waves have v = √(gλ/2π); shallow water waves √(gh).
A buoy bobs in circles as swells pass.
Wave speed depends on wavelength in deep water.
Tsunami and shallow water waves
Speed depends on depth.
v = √(gh)In the deep ocean a tsunami has a small amplitude (< 1 m) and huge wavelength (200 km); its speed √(gh) ≈ 200 m/s at 4 km depth. Near the shore the wave slows and the amplitude grows enormously.
The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami crossed the ocean in hours.
Energy conservation: slower speed gives a higher wave.
Seismic waves
P waves are longitudinal; S waves are transverse and slower.
Earthquakes generate P-waves (longitudinal, fast, through liquids too) and S-waves (transverse, slower, solids only), plus surface waves. The delay between them gives the distance to the epicentre; S-wave shadow showed the liquid core.
The P-S gap of 30 s ≈ 250 km.
Surface waves cause the most damage.
Acoustics of rooms
Reverberation time depends on volume and absorption.
T = 0.161V/AReverberation time T = 0.161V/A (Sabine) depends on room volume and total absorption. Concert halls aim for 1.5–2.2 s.
V = 3000 m³ and absorption 1500 m²: T = 0.161·3000/1500 ≈ 0.32 s.
Too much reverberation blurs speech.
Musical scales and intervals
Notes relate by simple frequency ratios.
Notes sound consonant when their frequencies are ratios of small integers: octave 2:1, fifth 3:2, fourth 4:3. Equal temperament divides the octave into 12 steps of 2^{1/12}.
A440 and E at 660 Hz are a perfect fifth.
Equal temperament slightly detunes pure intervals.
Fourier analysis
Any periodic wave is a sum of sines.
Any periodic wave can be written as a sum of sinusoids at multiples of the fundamental. A square wave contains odd harmonics with amplitudes 1/n.
Audio spectrum analysers show these components.
Non-periodic signals need the Fourier transform.
Wave equation (PDE)
The partial differential equation governing waves.
∂²y/∂x² = (1/v²)∂²y/∂t²∂²y/∂x² = (1/v²)∂²y/∂t² governs non-dispersive waves. Any function f(x − vt) or g(x + vt) solves it.
Plucked string: d'Alembert's solution.
It's linear, so superposition holds.
Solitons
Waves that keep their shape while travelling.
Solitary waves that keep their shape and speed over long distances because nonlinearity balances dispersion; they pass through each other unchanged. Examples: tidal bores, optical fibre pulses.
John Scott Russell followed a canal wave for miles in 1834.
Found in the KdV equation.
Noise cancellation
Anti-phase sound cancels unwanted noise.
A microphone samples noise and a speaker emits the same waveform with opposite phase, so the sum cancels. It works best for steady low-frequency sound such as engine hum.
Aeroplane headphones.
Needs precise phase matching.
Frequently asked questions
Why does sound travel faster in solids than in air?
Sound is a mechanical wave, so it needs a medium. Solids are generally stiffer and more elastic than gases, so their particles pass on vibrations more quickly.
What is the difference between transverse and longitudinal waves?
In a transverse wave, particles oscillate at right angles to the direction the wave travels, as on a string. In a longitudinal wave, particles oscillate along the direction of travel, as in sound in air.
Why do you hear the pitch of a passing siren change?
The Doppler effect shifts the frequency. The pitch is higher as the source approaches, because the waves are compressed, and lower as it moves away.
Do waves transport matter?
Not usually. In most waves, particles oscillate around fixed positions and only the energy and the pattern of the disturbance move forward.
Why is sound louder when waves add in phase?
In phase, the displacements add, which increases the amplitude and therefore the intensity of the sound. Out of phase, they cancel and the sound is quieter.
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