Home / Topics / Waves & Sound
Waves in water
Intermediate
Surface waves combine transverse and longitudinal motion.
Surface waves are a combination of transverse and longitudinal motion — particles move in circles. Deep water waves have v = √(gλ/2π); shallow water waves √(gh).
A buoy bobs in circles as swells pass.
Wave speed depends on wavelength in deep water.
In more detail
Water waves are generated by wind, and their speed depends on depth and wavelength. Deep-water waves are dispersive, with longer waves moving faster.
Real-world uses
- Surfers read wave speed and wavelength to choose good waves.
- Harbour designers protect coasts from wave energy.
- Surfers and harbour engineers study water waves that combine circular particle paths with a surface shape.
Open the interactive lesson, with simulation and quiz →
Frequently asked questions
Do water waves move water forward?
No. Water moves in circles, while the wave pattern travels forward.
Why do long waves travel faster?
In deep water, speed depends on wavelength, so longer waves move faster.
Do water waves carry water forward?
No. Water particles move in circles, so only the energy and the pattern of the wave travel forward.
Related topics in Waves & Sound
Energy transport in waves · Wave packets and group velocity · Dispersion · Tsunami and shallow water waves · Seismic waves · Acoustics of rooms